Kerf Table

For this project, I designed and built a curved table using Kerf bending. The goal was to explore the possibilities of bending plywood while taking on a more complex, multi step process.

The design incorporates a curved outer shell, a built in drawer, and a smooth amber finish, combining functionality and visual appeal. In the process of testing and building this project I experimented with Kerf spacing, developed a prototype, and refined the construction methods to achieve my project goal.

This Instructible documents the entire process, from initial sketches and CAD modeling to assembly, finishing, and final details.

Materials:

1. 5-layer Plywood. 2x8ft-$69 + 2x4ft-$35= ($104)
2. Wood glue. 4oz= ($2.50)
3. Drawers pull. ($5.40)
4. Drawer Slides. ($28.90)
5. Bolts. ($0.50)
6. Adhesive backed felt. 1/4roll= ($2.50)
7. Spray Polyurethane. ($8.40)
8. TOTAL: $152.20

Tools:

1. Table saw
2. Drill
3. Table saw sled
4. Orbital sander
5. Hand-held router
6. CAD software

I gathered ideas, sketches, a Cad model, and mood boards to think through the project at hand.

Using a Kerf Calculator to find the number, and spacing, of cuts, I cut a test piece on the table saw in order to create a scale model of the kerf bends.

I Cut the plywood down to size for the shell, drawer front, back panel, and shelf using the table saw. After that, I used a router to cut a dado into the shell, in order for the shelf and back panel to sit flush. Finally, I made, and used, a Table saw sled to cut 18 kerfs into the shell.

The first step in building the drawer box was cutting a square frame out of plywood. I then cut a consistent groove, slightly oversized, to match the thickness of the drawer bottom before assembling the box with wood glue and securing it with the provided screws while the glue dried. Finally, I used a drill to create evenly spaced holes for the drawer pull, attached it to the drawer front with bolts, and secured the drawer front to the drawer box.

I first completed a dry assembly to ensure everything fit together properly before disassembling the table and reassembling it with wood glue and clamps. I used the drawer box to keep the shell square while the glue dried. Once the glue had fully cured, I removed the table from the clamps and installed the drawer slides, using the back panel and shell to ensure proper alignment.

To complete the final details, I used a router and template to add small standoffs, or feet, to the bottom of the Kerf Table. I then filled the kerf slots with a mixture of wood glue and sawdust to conceal the openings. Once everything had dried, I used an orbital sander with 220 and 320grit sandpaper to lightly sand the entire Kerf Table. I also smoothed the inside of the drawer box to ensure there were no rough edges that could hurt your hands when reaching inside. Finally, I cut and fit a sheet of felt inside the drawer, giving it a more finished and premium feel.

To finish the Kerf Table, I applied spray polyurethane to create a smooth, protective finish. I chose a spray application rather than a wipe-on finish because I was more comfortable working with it. I applied 4 coats to the outside of the Kerf Table and 3 to the underside and interior of the shell and drawer body, lightly sanding between each coat.